Yves Saint Laurent, one of the world’s greatest fashion designers, passed away overnight on Sunday, six years after his 2002 retirement. The man whose initials “YSL” became a symbol of taste and quality on any garment was an ingenious artist and a myth in himself, leaving behind an important body of work.

“Chanel liberated women, which later allowed me to give them power,” the so-called “prince of fashion” was fond of saying. He rewrote the rules of fashion, mixing feminine with masculine styles, and constantly updated women’s wardrobes to suit the times. A true revolutionary, he is perhaps best known for creating women’s tuxedo, the “saharian” (a modified safari jacket), and the tailored cigarette trousers.

Fashion journalist Vivianne Blassel knew the late designer well. “He often used to say that one should not make women look ridiculous, and he never betrayed them.” she told FRANCE 24. “This principle was held up as a model by other designers”, she added, emphasising the respect and admiration that Yves Saint-Laurent’s contemporaries shared for him.

“The prince of fashion”

Born on August 1, 1936 in Oran, in Algeria, the young Yves-Mathieu Saint Laurent decided to embark on a Paris adventure at the age of 17. Starting as assistant to Christian Dior, the apprentice rose within the company upon Dior’s death in 1957. Laurent became artistic director of the fashion house at the tender age of 21, where he had immediate success with his first collection, “Trapeze,” exalted by critics and consumers alike. A star was born – one that would be a fixture of the Paris fashion scene for the next 40 years.

He opened his own fashion house in 1961 with the assistance of his faithful friend and associate Pierre Bergé. Though claiming he found “refuge” in the colour black, Laurent soon became a master of colour-play. His work echoed images ranging from childhood memories in Algeria to the paintings of the great masters. Also an aficionado of theatre and literature, he designed sets and costumes for plays, operas, and other stagings.

“He changed society and women”

Yet, the artist was above all a tormented, torn man. "A very fragile and timid being", recalls Vivianne Blassel. The victim of chronic depression, he retreated from the world of fashion in 2002. Two years later, the YSL house created a foundation to host exhibits and house works by the master. Word of his death overnight on Sunday has left the whole nation in morning, including the French President, whose office referred to Laurent as “the first person to raise haute couture to an art form and grant it global recognition.”

But the finest homage to the master was given by his longstanding friend Bergé, who told radio programme France Info, “Yves Saint Laurent is a true creator, a libertine, and an anarchist… he changed society, and women.” He will take his place in the pantheon of fashion alongside the likes of Coco Chanel.