This footage, which shocked the world, was shot in Thailand, a country where political violence was thought to have been a thing of the past. To get to the roots of the country’s conflict, we are going into the Thai countryside, to Chiang Rai, a bastion of government opponents, recognised by their colour - red.

This restaurant sells the best noodles in town, but it’s also the place of Khun Mate, a fanatical supporter of the exiled former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, like the vast majority of the people here.

"Look at this picture," says Mate, "it’s when he came here in my restaurant, it was just after the tsunami, he cooked for us and served customers. It was to raise money for the victims."

Here Thaksin is on every wall and in everyone’s mind.

Mate insists: “I want him to come back. Here we all want him to come back to Thailand. Do you remember the last time he came? Thousands of supporters were at the airport to welcome him as a hero…We need him, have you seen what he has done for the country? He has given all he had, all his fortune.. I wouldn’t be here today, I wouldn’t be standing in front of you if he hadn’t helped me.”

Khun Mate’s place is a regular meeting point for opponents of the current government, for those nostalgic for Thaksin’s populist policies, activists concerned about the decline of Thai democracy, and even former communist guerrillas, like Aod, nicknamed 'The Uncle', who spent many years in the jungle. He insist on taking us to see his new project.

"We are fighting to be heard," explains this former communist guerrilla. "There are millions of silent people who are behind us. For me, being clandestine is a thing of the past; today I’m fighting with modern means. I operate in the open."

Operating in the open. No longer underground. Here is Aod's new project - a radio station. But it's not a regular radio station. It’s an anti-government community radio station where activists take turns on the microphone from dawn till late at night. On these airwaves, you will only hear diatribes against the new prime minister and calls to bring back Thaksin Shinawatra. Today’s guest is Kritsanee, nicknamed 'Black Sister'. She briefly fled to a neighbouring country last month to avoid arrest.

Kritsanee is very straightforward: "Yes, we all know that there are some highly powerful people in this country, they are above the law and democracy. But I will fight until the end for my freedom. I will fight until they put my body in a coffin if I have to."

For the new prime minister Abhisit Vejjajiva, these hostile provinces are still off-limits.

"I don’t want to go anywhere that would play into the hands of people who want to give this impression that there’s violence and conflict. I don’t think it’s democratic for any party that tries to instigate or run campaigns that prevent other parties from campaigning in those areas," Abhisit Vejjajiva explains to FRANCE 24.

Thailand is deeply divided. There is a strong discord between rural and urban areas. The country is changing. For better or for worse.