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All the best of the Parisian catwalks and a look behind the scenes at the big names in Haute Couture. Every Friday at 10.20 am Paris time.

FASHION

FASHION

Latest update : 2012-07-12

Special men's collection

Gentlemen, you will be pleased ! Dare to wear floral prints, colors, patterns, and stripes. In regards to the hemlines, the choice is simple, shorts or ankle-length pants. A special fashion report presenting the men’s collections of Summer 2013.

Let’s start with a classic brand. It’s the second season for the French shoemaker Berluti, which was transformed into a veritable fashion house by LVMH. The Jardins du Palais Royal have been privatized. The male models strutting here resemble dapper gentlemen of the 50s.
At Viktor and Rolf, the collection is all about spiritual elegance. Notice the Indian influences in the colors and the motifs.
Men have always loved suits. The Korean designer Juun J. proposes exaggerated silhouettes typical of the 1940s. Very large shoulders, high waistlines, extremely tapered at the ankles. Juun J. adds a bonus, caps with a very wide brim.
Paul Smith retains his energy, even after 20 years ! The collection is rock and roll and optimistic, with shades of almond, mustard, pink and eggplant.
And to conclude on classic men’s offerings, let’s go to Walter van Beirendonck. He is all about maintaining a private life, far from the social networks. Yet the concept of being plugged in is still expressed through his bondage-like accessories.
Before presenting his first women’s haute couture collection for Dior, Raf Simons designed for men. Shorts split down the front ! He uses feminine formulas without forgetting that he is dressing men. Raf Simons is hardly austere.
At the Givenchy show, we meet Amar’e Stoudemire. One of the world’s best basketball players, he is based in New York. This fashionista measures 2 meters 08, 118 kilos.
Yohji Yamamoto is the same as always. Serene. Even if his company is not doing well financially. He is wearing a T-Shirt emblazoned with the phrase « For sale ». What to say ?
Anne Demeulemeester holds her catwalk show at the Couvent des Cordeliers. She summarizes her signature style in three words : sophisticated, strong, strange. She is also playing with colors these days : deep, warm, complex colors.
Kenzo’s show is held at the House of Judo. Samuri open the show. Humberto Leon and Carole Lim, the artistic directors of the brand, wanted to dig deep into the heritage of Kenzo Takada. Leopard and tiget prints. The line is functional, relaxed, in the spirit of the jungle. Very 70s.
Before taking over the helm at Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche had his own brand. It’s rather sporty. The sleeves of the T-shirts spill over shirts, and vice versa.
After putting on a show for his namesake label in a garage in the 3rd arrondisement of Paris, Kris Van Assche heads over for the Dior Homme show, held in a tennis club in the 16th arrondisement of Paris. It’s a star-studded crowd : Sharon Stone, Haider Ackermann, Karl Lagerfeld, Audrey Marnay. The collection is monochrome blue, with tiny red details. The tailoring is impeccable, the architecture of the clothes remarkable.
A work that requires extreme rigor…
And speaking of responsibility, let’s head over to Maison Martin Margiela, a fashion house known for being equitable. 17 models sway to the tune of jazzy blues.
Let’s head over to the Lanvin show, overseen by Lucas Ossendrijver. With Alber Elbaz, they continue to explore the possibilities of contradiction.
And to conclude, let’s go now to Thom Browne’s show. The New Yorker has rented the gardens of the Maison de la Chimie. There are 40 pairs of shoes, as well as golden satyrs. 40 silhouettes, a real theatrical display !
One should know which trends from these shows are adaptable to real life and which ones to leave for the catwalk. After all, being fashionable is knowing how to be rigorous and choosy.

 

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