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Culture

Spring trends on show as Paris Fashion Week kicks off

© AFP

Text by FRANCE 24

Latest update : 2013-09-26

Paris Fashion Week kicked off on Tuesday, ending a month of international catwalks presenting trends for Spring 2014. Over the next seven days, editors and fashionistas will attend up to 97 official shows and countless other off-calendar shows.

Paris Fashion Week kicked off on Tuesday, ending a month of international catwalks presenting trends for Spring 2014. Over the next seven days, editors and fashionistas will attend up to 97 official shows and countless other off-calendar shows have been planned.

Tuesday - the first day of Paris ready-to-wear collections - which showcased the design world’s up-and-coming talents, is a day largely ignored by the top magazine editors.

A model presents a creation by Anthony Vaccarello during the 2014 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show. ©AFP

But the shows demonstrated that while these fledgling day-one designers may be new, they still have something important to add to the big trends in the season's fashion conversation so far.

The spring-summer 2014 collections saw Devastee hit the trend spot with its black and white designs seen from the likes of Jil Sander and Missoni in Milan, as too did Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello with a provocative spin worthy of Donatella Versace. Cedric Charlier dabbled in the 90s-era high-shine metallic look that’s been seen in high rotation. Aganovich, meanwhile, rounded off the day with an alternative and inventive take on historical vestments.

Christine Phung, the first Franco-Cambodian designer to have a show during Paris Fashion Week, put on a rooftop catwalk show on top of Paris's famed Galeries Lafayette department store.

Her "Liquid Dilusion" collection featured a delicate palette of metallic grey, silver, white and ecru as well as black and ultramarine.

Looks inspired by "the possibilities of water" included billowing silk trousers teamed with a sheer halter neck top and pleated dresses and skirts. Of around 10 looks in the collection, one was worn by a black model and two by Asian models.

On Wednesday, Dries Van Noten, Guy Laroche, Gareth Pugh and Rochas were amongst the most anticipated collections, while Damir Doma’s show channeled a summer vibe.

Futuristic looks played a major part in Guy Laroche’s spring-summer show, which put a spin on designer Marcel Marongiu’s signature male styles.

“I was trying to stretch boundaries for masculine and feminine; also there was something a bit science-fiction in the shapes,” said Marongiu after the show’s in Paris’s Grand Palais.

The result was a collection with some great ideas, but one that seemed to lack energy overall in its 42 looks.

Croatian-born designer Damir Doma produced an unusually delicate spring-summer 2014 collection.

The breezy white cotton looks felt like a welcome new direction from a man known for his monkish, dark and medieval styles. The best detail of the show was the perforated holes - neatly embroidered - that punctuated dresses, gauze skirts and boxy tops. Instead of being punched into the black and white looks mechanically, they were distributed almost randomly, breaking up what might have been stark monochromes.

Doma’s signature asymmetry was still in abundance with a series of truncated toga styles but they were delivered with a delicacy through the lightness of the cotton. Bright flashes of color - like primrose yellow or orange - nicely softened the palette and were sometimes found on an asymmetric shoulder strap.

(FRANCE 24 with wires)

Date created : 2013-09-25

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