On December 7th, 1988, Leninakan, the second-largest city in Soviet-ruled Armenia, was razed to the ground by a devastating earthquake. Twenty-five years later, Gyumri, as the town is now called, is part of independent Armenia. Its hastily rebuilt homes have become shanty towns. Over half the population is out of work. Nevertheless, the city is rising from the rubble and its population is hoping for a better future.

By Elena GABRIELIAN , Armen GEORGIAN , Alexandra RENARD