Don't miss




Amnesty International says at least 58 killed in Addis Ababa violence

Read more


Austria restricts immigration and hampers integration

Read more


Historian Joan Scott: 'Hardline secularism is as bad as hardline Islam'

Read more


Shaking up the workplace: How employers face the challenge of automation

Read more


Even in Kenya, exiled Burundians fear for their lives

Read more


Alibaba founder rolls back on pledge to create 1m US jobs

Read more


Controversial or creative? Chef gets lobsters high before boiling them so they don't suffer

Read more


Breakthrough in Pyongyang? Kim promises to visit Seoul, dismantle nuclear sites

Read more


Rapper I-NZ's 'This is Iraq': When music gets political

Read more

Armani sets his classical style against theatrical excess

© AFP | Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani


Giorgio Armani launched his new collection "Atmosphere" in Milan on Saturday, proclaiming his deep-rooted classicism against extravagant theatrical trends.

"My fashion is not that of a theatre which lasts as long as a catwalk show, which serves only to create chatter and would be disconnected from what the client finds in my boutiques," the 83-year-old designer told AFP at the Fall/Winter show.

"I won't talk to you about severed heads... I have never played that game, and today's show confirms the idea I have always defended -- I am not here to confuse you."

He was referring to a debate that followed Gucci's show on Wednesday which saw some models carry their own heads, among other things such as baby dragons, as the latest accessory.

Gucci kicked off Milan Fashion Week in typical eccentric style transforming the runway into a creepy operating room.

The season is proving something of a crossroads between the so-called "Armania" codes of linear elegance, pure elongated forms and other cultural influences.

For Armani, ethnic motifs are found in embroidery on short or long jackets, in pompom jewellery, on the edges of shoulder bags.

"The intrusion and the inclusion of ethnic references in fashion is what sets off emotion," he explained.

"Saint-Laurent did it with Morocco in the 70s and people remember that."

Silhouettes are fluid, trousers billowing, shoes flat.

The neutral palette that characterises Armani style has been lifted with bright colours such as fuchsia, red as well as metallic or glass highlights.

After the show, some guests were invited to watch a short film called "The Jacket" made by the Armani Laboratorio, a cinema workshop where last November eight youngsters worked with renowned mentors from the film world.

Giorgio Armani declared himself "happy with the result" of the film.

"When a project is born but I do not have control of it, I have to leave it to the talent of others and that leads to apprehension.

"So I am reassured and very satisfied."

© 2018 AFP